Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the city's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.

"It was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that rawness."

While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is in good company. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However since that time, Enninful feels a profound shift. "I feel, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This regression is increasingly evident: the rise of nationalist groups, the pushback against progressive values, and the return of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, now a more divisive political figure looms as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

In Enninful's view, the solution has consistently been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of prominent faces from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he says, discussing those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will pass."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

His formative years would forge a groundbreaking career marked by boldness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since leaving his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … this duality gave me a unique perspective both an insider and outsider."

Defying the popular image of fashion editors as brash and highly strung, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including publicly shared battles with depression and addiction.

He has also undergone significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, not working, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This drive to be typecast has inspired him away from the world that built his career. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.

"The establishment sometimes neglected to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the right pedigree," he states.

The magazine 72 itself operates on a different strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential industry leaders. His path, he believes, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward react to the his current self? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."