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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.